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Yeah, it has to be non-clumping kitty litter, and make sure it doesn't have any additives. Clay pellets are also sold under the names "Turface" - the stuff they use on the dirt part of baseball infields and "Oil-sorb" which is sold very cheaply in automotive supply stores to suck up oil slicks. Again check the ingredients to make sure they're just clay.
While Java Moss is good AND it floats its not a floating plant. An example of a floating plant would be duckweed. I personally use water cabbage because its easy to remove. These plants have leaves that float on/above the surface and remain DRY at all times to absorb Co2 from the air. Their roots extend into the water to suck up the nutrients. Just a note: Although water lilies have floating leaves, their roots are in the soil. So they're not floating plants.
As far as light goes the golden rule is 10-40 lumens per square inch of tank surface area with a color temperature (kelvins) of between 5000-6500. But make sure the light is evenly distributed. The concentrated nature of light coming from T5s can be a problem but you should be able to rig something up. The 10,000 K (kelvin) bulb is simply a menace.
To find out the lumens on your light check out the packaging or just google, for example, 32watt/T5/lumens and you should be able to find out what you've got. By the way, sunlight is always best.
Because floating plants rob the water of nutrients, they will also hurt your regular plants. But the good news is your regular plants are a more evolutionary advanced, complex form of plant life than algae; so they will survive the floating plants onslaught while the algae will die. Remove the floating plants on a need-be basis. They can, and will, takeover a tank in no time.
The aquarium hobby can be frustrating. I've been in it for a long time and constantly goof up. What we all need are little (and big) victories every now and then. I hope you get a few.
Too many fish. I would also get rid of you 10 k bulb. I only fertilize at the roots and use high quality carbon. Hydrocarbon 2 by two little fishes. This will remove dissolved organics in the water. I also use RO/DI water for all water changes. I inject CO2 and the plants absorb any excess Nitrate. Your substrate is also loaded with silicates with diatom algae thrive on. I would start again with florite substrate ditch the kitty litter. then use a good quality root based fertilizer. Let me know if you have any further questions. Good luck. I also use two t12 75 watt vho aquasun bulbs. 4 watts per gallon only 8 hours a day.
For the record, algae is a healthy part of a fish's environment. But it is ugly. So I try to cultivate it on the sides of the aquarium and keep the front viewing pane open. If you want to get rid of it you have to understand the cause: nitrogenous waste and minerals in the water. Again mineral rich water isn't necessarily bad but it feeds algae. Algae cannot survive in water that is clean and very soft (mineral deficient). If the water you're using to make water changes has lots of minerals then you're just aggravating the problem. The best way to get rid of algae is to load up on floating plants. They suck up nitrogenous waste and minerals much faster than submerged plants because they get their carbon dioxide from the air which holds way more Co2 than water. They simply outcompete the algae. People also use terrestrial plants that hang just above the water's surface with their roots in the water.
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